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4.2 Sustainable Fibers
Sustainable fibers, as defined by Štefko & Steffek (2021), are materials that prioritize environmental responsibility, social accountability, and economic viability throughout their lifecycle. These fibers are often biodegradable, organic, or recycled, contributing to minimizing the environmental footprint of fashion production.
In this chapter, we aim to:
- Understand the significance of sustainable fibers in reducing the environmental impact of fashion production.
- Explore strategies for implementation, such as the development and utilization of biodegradable, organic, or recycled fibers.
- Delve into key considerations, including the evaluation of the full lifecycle impact of fibers, cost-sustainability balance, and scalability.
Significance of sustainable fibers
The global fashion industry, heavily reliant on traditional fibers such as conventional cotton, polyester, and viscose, plays a significant role in environmental degradation. The cultivation, production, and processing of these fibers impose substantial ecological burdens:
Water consumption:
Known as one of the thirstiest crops, conventional cotton farming is extremely water-intensive. It is estimated that approximately 2,700 liters of water are needed to produce the cotton required for a single T-shirt, as highlighted by the World Wildlife Fund (WWF). This extensive water usage strains freshwater resources, particularly in water-scarce regions.
Chemical Pollution
- Pesticides and fertilizers: Cotton cultivation consumes about 6% of the world’s pesticides and 16% of insecticides, more than any other single major crop, according to the Pesticide Action Network UK. These chemicals contribute to soil degradation, water contamination, and harm to aquatic and terrestrial life.
- Dyeing and finishing processes: The textile dyeing process is the second largest water polluter globally. The use of azo dyes, which release carcinogenic amine compounds, has been particularly concerning. The World Bank estimates that up to 20% of industrial water pollution comes from textile dyeing and treatment.
Greenhouse Gas Emissions
Polyester, a petroleum-based fiber, is the most widely used fiber in the fashion industry. Its production involves significant emissions of greenhouse gases. A report by Quantis reveals that the polyester supply chain contributed to approximately 706 million tons of CO2 equivalent in 2015, which is more than the annual CO2 emissions of all air travel.
Waste
The Ellen MacArthur Foundation reports that the equivalent of one garbage truck full of clothes is burned or dumped in a landfill every second. Less than 1% of the material used to produce clothing is recycled into new clothing, indicating a massive loss of valuable materials and a substantial contribution to environmental pollution.
Sustainable fibers emerge as a critical solution in this context. By adopting materials that are biodegradable, organic, or recycled, the fashion industry can significantly lower its ecological footprint. The transition to sustainable fibers is not merely a shift in materials but a comprehensive reevaluation of production practices, aimed at conserving natural resources, reducing pollution, and promoting a circular economy.
Organic Fibers
Organic fibers are cultivated without the use of harmful pesticides, synthetic fertilizers, or genetically modified organisms. This method of farming supports soil health, conserves water, and reduces pollution, making organic fibers a cornerstone of sustainable fashion. Organic fibers originate from biologic sources (can be both vegetable fibers as well as fibers of animal origin) and are always biodegradable.
Examples of traditional fibers that can be grown organically:
- Organic cotton
- Linen
- Jute (more industrial use than for the fashion sector)
- Hemp
- Kapok
- Wool (as long as the animals are raised ethically and fed sustainably)
- Silk (Silkworms are treated ethically and no chemicals are used in growing the mulberry trees) – Ahimsa silk (cruelty-free)
- Ramie
- Bamboo
- Natural Rubber
Source: https://www.sustainyourstyle.org/en/fibers-eco-review
Recycled Fibers
Recycled fibers are a key component in the push towards more sustainable fashion. These fibers are derived from two main sources: pre-consumer waste, such as fabric scraps left over from the manufacturing process, and post-consumer waste, which consists of used garments or textiles that are no longer wanted by their original owners. Recycling these materials into new fibers reduces waste, conserves resources, and lowers the environmental impact compared to virgin fiber production.
Examples of recycled fibers:
- Polyester: Recycled polyester is made by breaking down used plastic bottles into small chips, which are then melted and spun into new polyester fibers. This process significantly reduces energy consumption by up to 59% compared to virgin polyester, according to the NGO Textile Exchange.
- Nylon: Similar to recycled polyester, recycled nylon is made from waste materials, including discarded fishing nets, fabric scraps, and carpet flooring. The recycling process transforms these materials into high-quality nylon yarns, which can be used in various applications, from apparel to swimwear. The Italian company Aquafil produces Econyl®, a form of recycled nylon that is 100% regenerated and regenerable. Econyl® reduces the global warming impact of nylon by up to 80% compared with the material from oil, according to the company’s life cycle assessment.
- Wool: Recycled wool primarily comes from two sources: post-consumer wool garments, such as old sweaters and coats, and pre-consumer waste, which includes scraps and noils (short fibers) from the spinning and weaving processes. Recycling wool involves a series of steps designed to transform these materials back into usable fiber: sorting, cleaning, fiber recovery and spinning.
- Cotton: Recycled cotton is derived from both pre- and post-consumer fabric waste. The recycling process involves collecting cotton waste, sorting it by color, and then mechanically breaking it down into fibers that can be spun into new yarns. The environmental advantage of recycled cotton is notable in its substantial water savings, given that conventional cotton farming is highly water-intensive
Innovative fibers
Innovative fibers represent a groundbreaking shift in the textile industry, driven by the urgent need for sustainability and environmental responsibility. These fibers, emerging from the convergence of technology, science, and a deep commitment to ecological conservation, are redefining the materials used in fashion and beyond. Innovative fibers are born from the pursuit of alternatives to traditional and even established sustainable materials, seeking to minimize environmental impact, reduce waste, and utilize renewable resources more efficiently. These fibers often come from unexpected sources, ranging from agricultural waste to synthetic bio-based polymers, each with unique properties and potential applications.
Some of the best examples include:
Lyocell
A fiber made from the pulp of eucalyptus trees grown in sustainably managed forests. The production process is closed-loop, meaning almost all the solvents used are recycled. This significantly reduces waste and environmental impact compared to traditional fiber production.
● Properties: Tencel fibers are biodegradable, breathable, and have excellent moisture-wicking properties.
https://www.lenzing.com/sustainability
Aloe Vera Fiber
Extracted from the waste leaves of aloe vera plants after the gel has been harvested, this fiber makes use of a by-product, adding value to what would otherwise be discarded. The extraction process is relatively low in energy consumption and doesn’t require harmful chemicals.
● Properties: Aloe vera fibers are known for their softness and antibacterial properties, offering a natural option for clothing and textiles with skin-soothing benefits.
https://anokha-bandhan.com/fabric
Orange Pulp Fiber
Created from citrus juice by-products, orange pulp fiber transforms waste into wearable textiles, exemplifying an innovative approach to waste reduction. The conversion process involves extracting cellulose from the orange pulp, which is then spun into yarn.
● Properties: The fiber is biodegradable and can be produced with less water and energy than conventional textiles, plus it retains some of the natural properties of oranges, such as a pleasant scent and color.
Banana Stalk Fiber (Bananatex)
Derived from the stalks of banana plants, which are typically discarded after the fruit is harvested. Utilizing this agricultural waste product reduces environmental impact. The fibers are extracted through a mechanical process that doesn’t require significant energy input or harmful chemicals.
● Properties: Banana fiber is strong, biodegradable, and has a natural sheen, making it a sustainable alternative for making paper, textiles, and handicrafts.
Lotus Fiber
Extracted from the stems of lotus flowers, traditionally in Myanmar. This process does not harm the plant and makes use of a resource that would otherwise go unused. The extraction is entirely manual, making it eco-friendly and providing jobs in local communities.
● Properties: Lotus fiber is incredibly lightweight, breathable, and has a unique texture. It’s biodegradable and requires no dyes, offering a natural, eco-conscious fabric choice.
https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/9600/lotus-fibre-a-sustainable-textile
Coir Fiber
Coir is made from the husks of coconuts, utilizing a by-product of the coconut industry. The fiber is extracted from the husk through a process that is low-tech and environmentally benign.
● Properties: Durable and water-resistant, coir is an excellent material for outdoor products, mats, and ropes. It’s also naturally biodegradable and compostable.
http://coirboard.gov.in/?page_id=60
Soy Silk
Soy silk is made from the by-product of soybean processing, specifically the leftover residues from tofu and soy milk production. The protein in the waste is extracted and spun into a fiber that resembles silk. The process is relatively eco-friendly, minimizing waste.
- Properties: Durable and water-resistant, coir is an excellent material for outdoor products, mats, and ropes. It’s also naturally biodegradable and compostable.
https://sewport.com/fabrics-directory/soy-fabric
Lenpur Fiber
Lenpur is a cellulose fiber derived from white pine tree clippings, a renewable resource that doesn’t require the felling of trees. The production involves environmentally friendly technologies that recycle water and solvents.
● Properties: Known for its softness, ability to wick moisture, and biodegradability, Lenpur offers a sustainable alternative for textiles, with the added benefit of having thermal regulation properties.
https://www.lenpur.eu/technical
Stinging Nettles
Nettles grow abundantly in many climates without the need for pesticides or fertilizers. They are hardy plants that can thrive in poor soil conditions, making them an environmentally low-impact crop. Compared to conventional cotton, nettles require significantly less water to grow, contributing to water conservation efforts. Like other perennial plants, nettles can sequester carbon from the atmosphere. Research into nettle fiber processing aims to develop methods that are less chemically intensive than those used for many other natural fibers, further reducing the environmental footprint.
● Properties: Nettle fibers produce a fabric that is durable, has a natural resistance to stains, and can blend well with other fibers to enhance comfort and usability. Similar to linen and hemp, nettle fabrics offer excellent breathability and moisture-wicking properties.
https://billiondollarcollection.com/green-nettle-textile
Cupro
Cupro, often heralded for its sustainable attributes, is a regenerated cellulose fiber derived from the cotton linter, the ultrafine, silky fibers that stick to the seeds of the cotton plant after the cotton has been ginned. It is a form of rayon, and its production involves dissolving the cotton linters in an ammonium copper oxide solution to producea viscous solution that is then spun into fibers. Cupro makes use of cotton linters that might otherwise be discarded.
● Properties: Cupro fabrics are known for their outstanding softness, making them a popular choice for garments that are gentle against the skin. They also possess excellent moisture management properties, contributing to wearer comfort.
https://goodonyou.eco/what-is-cupro-fabric
Best practices associated with sustainable fibers:
| Name: | Elementum |
| Link: | https://elementum.store/ https://www.instagram.com/elementum.store/?hl=en |
| Industry sector: | Sustainable fibers, Sustainable sourcing, Design for Longevity, Design for reuse and reduce, Circular business model |
| Location: | Portugal and Netherlands |
| Description: | One best practice that Elementum applies is their use of organic and natural fibers. They source materials such as organic cotton, linen, and hemp, which are grown without the use of harmful chemicals or pesticides. These materials have a lower environmental impact and are biodegradable, contributing to a more sustainable fashion industry. In addition to their material choices and ethical production, Elementum promotes slow fashion and designs garments with longevity in mind. They create versatile and classic pieces that can be worn across seasons, encouraging consumers to invest in quality clothing that will last. Elementum also implements a circular approach to fashion. They offer a recycling program where customers can bring back their old Elementum garments, which are then upcycled or recycled into new products. This initiative reduces waste and allows customers to actively participate in closing the fashion loop. Furthermore, Elementum strives to educate consumers about sustainable fashion practices through their online platform and social media channels. They raise awareness about the environmental and social impact of the fashion industry and provide tips for conscious and responsible consumption. |
| Impact in numbers: | What is the measured impact of this practice? (provide information if possible, if not please delete this row) |
| Environmental benefits: | Sustainable production with lowered waste production and lowered use of resources and energy |
| Social & economic benefits: | Impact on community of sustainable designers, promoting collaboration and sustainable fashion ideologies, ethical working conditions |
| Name: | MALÌA LAB ATELIER |
| Link: | https://malialab.com/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j1AfXOVXHXE |
| Industry sector: | Sustainable fibers, Design for Longevity |
| Location: | Guardavalle Marina (CZ) Calabria – Italy |
Description: | Malia Lab is an artisan company founded by Flavia Amato, which produces and sells bespoke, handmade clothing in ateliers and online. These garments are produced with certified organic fabrics, which guarantee controlled yarns quality, and without additives and dangerous substances. These products are used to create clothes to be worn in all seasons, thanks to the thermoregulatory capabilities of natural fabrics, and made to last over time, thanks to an evergreen design suitable on all occasions, never out of fashion. To avoid waste and reduce returns, the company offers “made to order clothes. At the end of the product’s life, the materials are fully recyclable. In recent years, Malia has joined the broom processing chain, which used to be a widely used resource in southern Italy, with the SMAFINE /Smart Manufacturing project for natural and eco-sustainable fibers, funded by Regione Calabria. |
| Environmental benefits: | Malia Lab uses only natural fabrics from certified crops; linen, cotton, hemp, silk, bamboo or innovative materials such as Tencel or Lyocell (made from algae and eucalyptus trees), milk fiber or cupro (made from cellulose fiber) and also broom. All these materials are fully recyclable. |
| Social & economic benefits: | Broom is a spontaneous plant which doesn’t need treatments with insecticides and other toxic substances. The recovery of an ancient production through innovative technologies offers new opportunities for work and professional development to young people and local communities. |
| Technological & innovative benefits: | Malia has joined the broom processing chain, with the SMAFINE /Smart Manufacturing project for natural and eco-sustainable fibers. It’ is meant to recover an ancient production through innovative technologies. |
| Name: | THE SILK NEST |
| Link: | www.nidodiseta.com. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zLj1atyIzw8 |
| Industry sector: | Sustainable fibers |
| Location: | San Floro (CZ) Calabria, Italy. |
| Description: | The Silk Nest is an agricultural cooperative created to restore the traditional cultivation of mulberry for silkworm breeding that had been completely lost. The meeting with Gucci, in early 2022, gave a new perspective to the cooperative. The aim of the joint project is to create a new silk supply chain, which will also include the production of the first Gucci scarves made with silk threads from local organic farming practices. Gucci will also follow the expansion of the farmers involved, promoting the regenerative production of silk. The project has scientific partners such as CREA, the Italian public research institute, specialized in breeding and silkworm technologies, and Ongetta, the silk yarn producer. |
| Environmental benefits: | From an environmental point of view, the project contributes to the preservation of nature, improving soil conditions and increasing its capacity to store carbon from the atmosphere. Fruits and silk production waste can also be transformed into by-products from jam to cosmetics, thus favoring a circular economy. |
Social & economic benefits: | The initiative with Gucci will help rediscover traditional craftsmanship skills and create job opportunities in areas at high risk of depopulation. From a cultural point of view, a Silk Museum was established to preserve the heritage of silk history and traditions. An Academy was founded to pass on this ancient knowledge to the next generations of artisans. |
| Name: | MAX MARA: CAMELUXE |
| Link: | https://it.maxmara.com/editorial/thecube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e7MB1O1ZJp4 |
| Industry sector: | Sustainable fibres, Design for Material Cyclability |
| Location: | Production and administration headquarters are in Reggio Emilia, Italy. |
| Description: | Discarded camelhair fabrics are upcycled from coats (and not only) in order to create a warm insulating pad. It is capable of maintaining the same properties of virgin materials, without requiring additional consumption. CAMELUXE is created in three steps; first, recovered materials are gathered and sorted from our manufacturers in Italy; secondly, they are transformed through a mechanic process into very fine fibres. Lastly, the fibres are blended with recycled polyester, creating a high performing insulating mix, ready to be processed to create the pad. |
| Environmental benefits: | The upcycling process has less of an impact in terms of energy consumption, waste production, water usage and therefore CO2 emissions compared to a manufacturing process that relies on virgin fibres. |
| Technological & innovative benefits: | The commitment to protecting the environment is evidenced by the certifications acquired by Imbotex Lab, the leading company in the field of natural and technical padding, that has the GLOBAL RECYCLING STANDARD, (GRS), the OEKO-TEX, the GLOBAL ORGANIC TEXTILE STANDARD (GBTS), the INTERTEK VEGAN MARK (IVM). |
| Name: | Arjuna Knitwear |
| Link: | https://www.facebook.com/Arjuna.Knitwear |
| Industry sector: | Sustainable fibers |
| Location: | Athens, Greece |
| Description: | Inspired by the philosophy surrounding yoga, Arjuna Knitwear creates minimal knitted clothes by organic cotton. Recently, the brand has started to produce certain items exclusively with recyclable threads and organic cotton. |
| Environmental benefits: | Exclusive use of recyclable threads and organic cotton. |
| Social & economic benefits: | Wearing organic fabrics has a major positive impact on human and planet health, promoting ecological balance and protecting biodiversity. |
| Name: | Mikrovouti |
| Link: | https://el.mikrovouti.com/ |
| Industry sector: | Sustainable fibers |
| Location: | – Preveza, Greece – Nicosia, Cyprus |
| Description: | Environmentally friendly, socially responsible localised production of T-shirts. – Use of Greek clean cotton – The paints are safe and non-toxic and the prints are handmade with eco-friendly water-based paints – SOFA is responsible for sewing – Consumers send back products from the brand that do not want any more an get a discount of 10% in their next buy |
| Environmental benefits: | Social impact (SOFFA collaborates with 27 frontline NGOs in Greece, providing employment and vocational training in fashion to their beneficiaries. SOFFA also runs short workshops in their premises to mobilize their beneficiaries.) |
| Social & economic benefits: | – Sustainability benefit: zero waste, recyclable products, upcycling waste from the production – Social benefit: Cooperation with a social fashion factory (SOFFA) – SOFFA.gr is a social fashion factory that trains and hires survivors of human trafficking and refugees and reintegrates them into society. |
| Name: | WRÅD |
| Link: | https://www.wradliving.com/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LzzstyVpMp8 |
| Industry sector: | Sustainable fibers, Sustainable fabrics, Innovations in Garment Manufacture, Circular business models |
| Location: | Vicenza – Veneto, Italy |
| Description: | Production of sportswear and other special garments. The garments produced by WRÅD are made with recycled materials in partnership with Veneta Waste. The coloring takes place with a particular technology, gpwdr®, an innovative dyeing technique based on the recycling of enhanced graphite powder, inspired by ancient tradition. GPWDR® technology makes it possible to transform graphite waste into the raw material of an innovative and circular supply chain. The company owns certified dyes, such as Herculaneum Red and Smart Indigo, and doesn’t use any common dying chemicals. |
| Impact in numbers: | By connecting P.E.A.S. to the t-shirt through a QR code or an NFC tag signals ae transmitted to a mobile phone. The app recognizes how long you have had the garment, if you have already used it and how much you have amortized in terms of water, energy and technology consumption. |
| Environmental benefits: | The three pillars that guide WRÅD in their choice of materials are: safety, traceability and durability, to which is added the choice of materials reuse, such as recycled wool, polyester and cotton. In addition to production, WRÅD offers educational, design and consultancy services on sustainability practices. |
| Social & economic benefits: | WRÅD offers educational, design and consultancy services on sustainability practices. |
| Technological & innovative benefits: | WRÅD garments can be traced through a special system, an intelligent system that integrates social and environmental traceability with gamification. This system makes visible all the information on the origin and impact of clothes, pointing out how much the initial environmental cost of a garment is amortized over time. |
| Name: | FERRAGAMO |
| Link: | https://sustainability.ferragamo.com/it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wAPHzwJ4z6w |
| Industry sector: | Sustainable fabrics, Sustainable fibers |
| Location: | The company’s headquarters are in Florence. Production takes place in a series of specialized laboratories in the Florentine leather district. |
| Description: | Since 2020 it has introduced responsible, innovative and quality materials into production, such as organic cotton, viscose from responsible sources, and recycled and regenerated materials, such as nylon, wool, cashmere and silk. The company also uses new sustainable and innovative materials, such as ECONYL®, a synthetic yarn derived from recycled plastic polymers, and ORANGE FIBER, a sustainable fabric made from citrus processing industry by-products. |
| Environmental benefits: | The brand has implemented the 2030 Agenda SDOs, in its policies; It has promoted network initiatives with other Made in Italy brands to share the principles of environmental sustainability and operates in full compliance with European and national standards. |
| Social & economic benefits: | The use of recycled materials has contributed to the circular economy. |
| Other remarks: | Ferragamo has identified 9 Objectives from 2030 Agenda on which to focus their resources. The company’s commitment to the circular economy is carried out with a wide-ranging approach: from the inclusion of regenerated and circular raw materials in each collection, to the choice of certified and post-consumer packaging, from the attention to reuse or donation of obsolete raw materials, to energy consumption from renewable sources. |
| Name: | The Line Project |
| Link: | https://thelineproject.gr/ |
| Industry sector: | Sustainable fabrics |
| Location: | Athens, Greece |
| Description: | The Line Project uses exclusively eco-friendly raw materials that do not release environmentally hazardous by-products. They mainly work with tencel and cupro, both coloured with non-toxic substances. |
| Environmental benefits: | Production of clothes with exclusive use of eco-friendly raw materials. |
| Social & economic benefits: | The Line Project combining minimalistic and classical patterns in design has gained popularity among diverse age groups, promoting eco-friendly clothing even to consumers that are not sustainably-oriented. |
