3.4 Design for Material Cyclability

Design for material cyclability in fashion refers to the intentional planning and creation of clothing and accessories with a focus on ensuring that the materials used are easily recyclable or biodegradable. This approach encourages the incorporation of materials that can be efficiently reintroduced into the production cycle at the end of the product’s life.  Additionally, it involves considering disassembly and ease of repair during the design phase, promoting a circular economy where items can be repurposed or refurbished rather than discarded. 

Strategies for design for material cyclability include: 

• The mono-cycle approach
• Design for disassembly
• Using safe, renewable, recyclable inputs

The mono-cycle approach

Design in a single cycle is an approach in product design that emphasizes ease of disassembling a product into its individual components or materials at the end of its life cycle. The goal is to facilitate recycling, reusing, or properly disposing of the product’s parts, minimizing environmental impact and promoting sustainability. The approach focuses on using a single cycle of materials, making a product either 100% natural materials or 100% synthetic materials, in order to make a product fully biodegradable (in the case of natural fabrics) or fully recyclable (in the case of synthetic products). Blended fiber content in fabrics is absolutely out of the question in this approach. 

Key considerations: 

• Natural fabrics: Using 100% of the same natural material in a product will ensure the biodegradability of the product, leaving nothing behind at the end of its lifecycle. These must all be 100% cotton, viscose, linen, wool or silk. It is important that the fabrics used are not treated with substances that will alter the biodegradability of the materials. This approach does not exclude recycling the material
• Synthetic fabrics: Using 100% of the same synthetic fabric will ensure that the entire product is recyclable without having to separate its components for easy recycling. 
• Trimmings, haberdashery and yarns: All of the materials used within the product, including trimmings and haberdashery, must be either of the same material as the product, or easy to remove from the product. It is of high importance that the sewing threads are the same fiber content as the fabric used. 

Design for Disassembly

Design for disassembly in fashion refers to a strategic and intentional approach to garment creation that prioritizes the ease of separating and recycling individual components at the end of a garment’s life cycle. This methodology involves the use of modular construction, standardized fasteners, and reversible assembly techniques to facilitate the efficient dismantling of the garment. Materials are selected with recyclability and sustainability in mind, encouraging the use of easily recyclable fabrics and components. Designers implementing this approach also focus on labeling and providing clear instructions for disassembly, ensuring that each part of the garment can be identified and sorted appropriately for recycling or repurposing. Overall, design for disassembly in fashion aims to minimize environmental impact by promoting circularity and sustainable practices throughout the entire lifecycle of a garment.

Key considerations:

• Modular construction: Utilizing a modular design that allows garments to be easily taken apart into distinct components. This involves the use of standardized connectors, fasteners, and seams that enable efficient disassembly without causing damage to the materials.
• Material selection: Considering combining the mono-cycle approach with design for disassembly principles results in optimal recyclability of a product. In any case, in the design for disassembly approach, no blended fabrics are allowed
• Reversible Assembly Techniques: Implementing assembly techniques that are reversible, enabling the garment to be disassembled with minimal effort. This may involve using reversible seams, snaps, or other fastening methods that allow for straightforward dismantling.
• Removable Haberdashery: Considering the use of detachable embellishments, accessories, or additional elements (haberdashery) in the garment design. These removable components can include buttons, patches, or other decorative elements that, when easily detached, facilitate the disassembly process. By allowing consumers to remove and potentially reuse or replace these elements, designers contribute to the versatility and longevity of the garment, reducing the need for full replacement and promoting a more sustainable, modular fashion ecosystem.
• Clear Identification and Sorting: Incorporating clear labeling and identification systems for each garment component to simplify the sorting process during disassembly. Visual cues, such as color-coding or standardized tags, help in efficiently categorizing materials for recycling or reusing purposes.

Using safe, renewable, recyclable inputs

Designing clothing with safe, renewable, and recyclable inputs involves prioritizing environmentally friendly materials throughout the entire lifecycle of a garment.

Key considerations: 

• Safe inputs: refer to materials that do not pose harm to the environment, workers, or consumers during production, use, or disposal. This includes avoiding toxic chemicals and adopting eco-friendly dyeing and finishing processes. Examples: organic cotton, lyocell, organic silk, organic wool, hemp etc. certified withGOTS/OEKO-Tex,etc.
• Renewable inputs: derived from resources that can be naturally replenished over time, such as organic cotton, bamboo, or wool. These materials contribute to reducing the dependency on finite resources. Examples: hemp, linen, PLA, jute, etc.
• Recyclable inputs: involve using materials that can be collected, processed, and reprocessed into new products at the end of their life, promoting a circular economy. This approach aims to minimize waste and encourage the continual use of resources. Examples: recycled polyester, recycled cotton, recycled denim, recycled PET fleece 

Best practices related to design for Material Cyclability

Best practices: Amarossa, Loopalife, HNST, Napapijri Circular Series, ULTRALIMITED, MaxMara -Cameluxe, Hul Le Kes

Name:	Amarossa
Link:	https://www.peronshoes.ithttps://amarossa.com/
Industry sector:	EU Product Passport & RFID, Design for Material Cyclability
Location:	Camponogara (VE) – Italy
Description:	Peron is a small luxury footwear factory in the north of Italy. It has recently started on-demand production of its own brand Amarossa, a sustainable and ecological shoe, with zero environmental impact. At the end of its use, each model can be completely dismantled, regenerated and put back into cycle. For this reason, only 100% recyclable, green and eco-sustainable materials are used in its production.
Impact in numbers:	Zero environmental impact, since all materials are 100% recyclable, compostable and biodegradable.
Environmental benefits:	·   A Green approach: all materials are 100% recycled, compostable and biodegradable.·   At the end of its use, each model can be completely dismantled, regenerated and put back into cycle.·   Packaging: 100% recyclable.·   Free return policy: Returning a pair of used Amarossa is completely free.
Social & economic benefits:	100% Made in Italy production: each shoe is conceived, designed and manufactured by artisans in Italy, thus providing employment for local workers.
Technological & innovative benefits:	The company uses Blockchain Certificate, which moves along EPR (Extended Producer Responsibility) promoted by the EU (see Dir. 2018/851/EU). All shoes are equipped with 2 RFID identifying tags, associated with an NFC tag, readable by bringing a mobile phone closer to the shoe right sole. When the NFC is read, a web page opens with all the shoe data and any other useful piece of information.

Name:	Loopalife
Link:	www.Loopalife.com
Industry sector:	Design for Material Cyclability, Sustainable Fabrics, Innovations in Textile Production
Location:	Amsterdam
Description:	Specializes in recycling and upcycling post-consumer textile waste into new yarns and products, creating a closed-loop circular business model. They sort disposed textiles onto colors and recycle them to produce new fabrics.
Impact in numbers	no paint or chemicals used in the production process 7000 l of water saved per recycled cotton sweater, and 500 l saved per woolen sweater  10 kg CO2 saved per woolen sweater, 1,5 kg CO2 per cotton sweater
Environmental benefits:	Reduction in water and chemical usage, energy-efficient practices, and reduced transport emissions due to local production.
Social & economic benefits:	Local production ensures good working conditions and contributes to the local economy.
Technological & innovative benefits:	Development of diverse sustainable yarns like Wool2, Re-denim, Cotton2cotton, etc.
Other remarks:	Their circular design philosophy revolves around using local raw materials and recycled or sustainable fibers, exemplifying a commitment to material cyclability. This approach is crucial for creating sustainable fashion that reduces reliance on virgin resources​​.

Name:	HNST
Link:	https://www.letsbehonest.eu/
Industry sector:	Sustainable sourcing, Design for material cyclability
Location:	Belgium
Description:	HNST Studio is a trailblazer in sustainable fashion, driven by circular design principles and a commitment to reducing the environmental impact of its products. The brand’s innovative approach covers various aspects, from materials and processes to ethical practices and circular consumption to create truly circular denim products. The brand’s commitment extends to educating designers on circular economy principles, reducing harmful processes, and ensuring transparency throughout the supply chain.
Impact in numbers	HNST produced denims with:-        56% recycled cotton,-        23% Greek cotton, and-        21% Tencel. HNST denim only requires 361 litres of water per pair, which means this Belgian brand is reducing water consumption by 95% compared to industry standards.A pair of HNST jeans produces 4.16 kg of CO2 instead of 7.86 kg of CO2 produced by a conventional pair of jeans
Environmental benefits:	HNST Studio’s materials are exclusively recycled, organic, or responsibly sourced. The brand eliminates the use of fiber from endangered forest areas, maximizes renewable energy sources, and implements eco-friendly procedures in storage, transportation, and distribution. HNST Studio collaborates with Fabric Republic to manage surplus clothing through distribution to non-profits and recycling. The brand’s vertical supply chain transparency and emphasis on traceability demonstrate a commitment to innovation. HNST Studio’s unique manufacturing process encompasses seven steps, including harvesting, shredding, spinning, weaving, design, sewing, washing, and circular consumption. The brand’s circular design approach includes innovative features such as embroidered rivets, unscrewable and reusable buttons, and cellulose-based back patches, all contributing to a 100% natural and circular product.
Social & economic benefits:	Commitment to fair wages, ethical working conditions, and supporting a positive work environment reflects HNST Studio’s dedication to ethical practices. The brand’s entire supply chain is within the European Union, ensuring adherence to high social and environmental standards.
Other remarks:	HNST Studio not only embraces circular design but also educates consumers about its impact. The brand encourages customers to participate in circular consumption by offering repair services and a recycling program. HNST Studio’s commitment to transparency is evident in its detailed impact data and product pages, providing consumers with a clear understanding of the brand’s sustainable practices and materials.

Name:	Napapijri Circular Series
Link:	https://www.econyl.com/blog/case-studies-fashion/napapijri-reveals-infinity-the-first-circular-100-recyclable-jacket/
Industry sector:	Design for material cyclability
Location:	Aosa, Italy (retails worldwide)
Description:	The primary material innovation of the Circular Series is its mono-material construction, which uses ECONYL® Regenerated Nylon for the fabric and Nylon 6 for the filling and trims. The Circular Series may enter the recycling machine in its current form thanks to the use of a single material, and since the fibers are upcycled without losing any of their original characteristics or quality, ECONYL® Regenerated Nylon can be recycled repeatedly. Using Nylon 6, Napapijri built the Circular Series, which allows for endless repurposing and recycling of the clothing. The brand has also implemented a take-back program for their products.
Impact in numbers:	This practice has a Gold Cradle-to-Cradle certification
Environmental benefits:	Designing with regenerated mono-material reduces the impact on the environment by not using raw materials at all. The product is also fully recyclable, which makes for an infinite loop that saves a lot of energy and resources in the process.
Social & economic benefits:	Recycling already existing products in an infinite loop will significantly reduce production costs, as no new materials need to be purchased
Technological & innovative benefits:	Using a design for disassembly technique, an infinitely recyclable, but also practical and stylish item is created
Other remarks:	The process of recycling still uses a lot of energy to operate the machines, which means that there are still some emissions being produced, although significantly less

Name:	ULTRALIMITED
Link:	https://www.ultralimited.it/https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u4qXJqzkAIk
Industry sector:	Design for Material Cyclability
Location:	Registered office: Asti. Production and logistics site: Cordignano (TV): Veneto eyewear district.
Description:	Ultralimited manufactures glasses with cellulose acetate waste derived from other processes. Cellulose acetate is a bio-based polymer.  To obtain this, they start from the selection of renewable sources for certain varieties of cotton trees and waste. The raw material comes from the recycling of Mazzucchelli sheet waste, the world leader in the production and distribution of plastic material, traditionally used for the production of frames and sunglasses. A high number of acetate colors (196) allow 3 trillion different combinations with frames that match from 8 to 12 colors, making each pair of glasses unique. The frame is laser screen-printed with a progressive serial number to ensure its authenticity. Both frames and lenses can be customized with logos, writings or signatures. The company guarantees a repair service by sending glasses to the production site.
Environmental benefits:	Creative design and reuse of waste material lead to considerable energy savings and promotes a more sustainable environmental impact than traditional production methods.
Social & economic benefits:	Each Ultralimited eyewear is a 100% Made in Italy, handmade product, designed and produced through an innovative hi-tech processing system, which combines modern technologies with the wisdom of Cadore manufacturing. It takes 41 days to make a pair of glasses; The long processing, by craftsmen, experts, guarantees extreme attention to detail and durability, as well as providing employment to local artisans.
Technological & innovative benefits:	Technological innovation facilitates the recovery of waste materials to create a unique and durable product.

Name:	MAX MARA: CAMELUXE
Link:	https://it.maxmara.com/editorial/thecubehttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e7MB1O1ZJp4
Industry sector:	Sustainable fibres, Design for Material Cyclability
Location:	Production and administration headquarters are in Reggio Emilia, Italy.
Description:	Discarded camelhair fabrics are upcycled from coats (and not only) in order to create a warm insulating pad. It is capable of maintaining the same properties of virgin materials, without requiring additional consumption.CAMELUXE is created in three steps; first, recovered materials are gathered and sorted from our manufacturers in Italy; secondly, they are transformed through a mechanic process into very fine fibres. Lastly, the fibres are blended with recycled polyester, creating a high performing insulating mix, ready to be processed to create the pad.
Environmental benefits:	The upcycling process has less of an impact in terms of energy consumption, waste production, water usage and therefore CO2 emissions compared to a manufacturing process that relies on virgin fibres.
Technological & innovative benefits:	The commitment to protecting the environment is evidenced by the certifications acquired by Imbotex Lab, the leading company in the field of natural and technical padding, that has  the GLOBAL RECYCLING STANDARD, (GRS), the OEKO-TEX,  the GLOBAL ORGANIC TEXTILE STANDARD (GBTS), the INTERTEK VEGAN MARK (IVM).

Name:	Hul le Kes
Link:	www.hullekes.com
Industry sector:	RFID & Product Passport, Circular Business Models, Design for Reducing and Reusing Waste, Sustainable Textiles
Location:	Arnhem
Description:	Hul le Kes operates as a fully circular fashion label, focusing on sustainable alternatives within the fashion industry. The brand employs an in-house Manufacturing Studio and Recovery Studio, sells through its flagship store, webshop, and resellers, ensuring a continuous life cycle for its products. Hul le Kes prioritizes the use of existing materials, such as old bed linens, antique tablecloths, and secondhand clothes, sourced from flea markets, recycling companies, or donations. The design process is driven by the materials, resulting in limited series and unique garments. The brand follows natural seasons for its dyeing process, using plant-based materials. It also offers mending and repair services, as well as a clothing passport.
Impact in numbers:	95% of materials are recovered from existing materials
Environmental benefits:	Hul le Kes contributes to environmental sustainability by minimizing the use of new resources, actively seeking materials within Western Europe, and employing natural dyeing processes with items like onion peels and avocado seeds. The in-house upcycling process reduces waste and environmental impact, while the brand’s Repair Friday initiative offers a sustainable alternative to traditional shopping events. By offering Dyeing and Mending Services, Hul le Kes provides options for extending the lifecycle of garments
Social & economic benefits:	Provides employment opportunities to people with a distance to the labor market. The clothing passport adds a personal touch, allowing wearers to contribute to the narrative of their garments and share stories.
Other remarks:	Practices upcycling existing materials, which is a key aspect of material cyclability. By extending the lifecycle of garments through innovative design and manufacturing processes, they contribute significantly to the concept of circular fashion​​.