2.3 Innovative Technologies in garment manufacture

Nature of the problem

In the last few years, alternative and more creative methods of garment construction and modelling, tailoring and shaping have emerged.

Creating patterns, modelling intricate patterns and designing unique garments is a craft as well as a creative activity. The development of technology, trade and production of clothing makes today’s fashion industry interesting and competitive.

Many new brands, new processes and materials are emerging. Innovations in garment manufacturing enable fashion designers to be more innovative in their approaches to creating new samples of garments with unique designs.

Innovative technologies

Creative construction

Creative construction is a continuous and interactive process in the experimental product development phase. And this process is even more complex today due to global industrial trends. Thanks to technology and innovation at all stages of the chain, conceptual design and prototyping in a virtual environment and in fashion is a fact nowadays. In shaping the model, the moulding method and/or draping of details or garments is often used. This method allows the designer the opportunity to create by customising the garment, using original and different materials, details and elements, and to work planarly or volumetrically.

Tailoring based on Industry 4.0 is the most innovative achievement of modern technologies in the field of the sewing industry. Using this technology, the “Cutting” process is not only optimised, thanks to the possibility of cutting “on the edge”, it is also extremely flexible, allowing monitoring and control from anywhere in the world. With the help of an automatic cutting robot – the latest generation, it becomes possible to  automatically set the cutting parameters, and the entire cutting activity is performed by it – drawing, marking and cutting the flooring. In addition, thanks to its mobility, it is possible to service a greater number of laying tables, which further increases the cutting capacity. The robot has the ability to electronically monitor the power of the vacuum, which provides additional accuracy when cutting more complex models with more difficult-to-work materials.

Another innovation is the automated low-waste sewing technology – it is based on fully digitalized management, which ensures automation of operations according to preset parameters. In this way, it becomes possible to prevent the excessive consumption of resources , the reduction of generated waste, as well as the formation of marriage.

Vacuum ironing technology allows ironing of products with reduced detail reserves. Using a precise setting of the supplied amounts of vacuum and air, a qualitative inspection of seams and products of various shapes is achieved, with reduced reserves. Thanks to this technology, scrap production can be cut in half.

3D Modelling

3D modeling in fashion production represents a transformative approach that leverages digital technology to innovate design, sampling, and manufacturing processes. This advanced method enables designers to create three-dimensional digital prototypes of garments, accessories, and other fashion items, offering several significant advantages over traditional methods:

• Enhanced Design Visualization and Flexibility: 3D modeling allows designers to visualize their creations in a highly realistic manner before any physical prototype is made. This not only accelerates the design process but also enhances creativity, as modifications to the style, color, fabric type, and pattern can be made quickly and easily. Designers can experiment with a wide range of textiles and patterns in a virtual environment, making it easier to refine their ideas and achieve the desired outcome without the need for physical samples.
• Reduced Time and Costs: One of the most significant benefits of 3D modeling in fashion production is the substantial reduction in time and cost associated with the development and sampling phases. Traditional methods require physical samples to be made for each design iteration, involving material and labor costs as well as shipping if the production is outsourced. With 3D modeling, designers can create and modify digital samples instantly, eliminating the need for multiple physical prototypes and reducing the time from design to market.
• Sustainability: 3D modeling addresses these issues by minimizing the need for physical samples, thus reducing waste from materials used in discarded prototypes 
• Improved Fit and Customization: 3D modeling software often includes tools for simulating how fabrics behave and drape on virtual models of varying shapes and sizes. This can significantly improve the accuracy of garment sizing and fit, a crucial factor in reducing returns and dissatisfaction. Moreover, it opens up opportunities for customization and made-to-measure clothing, as designs can be easily adjusted to individual body measurements.
• Integration with Other Technologies: 3D modeling is frequently used in conjunction with other innovative technologies, such as augmented reality (AR) and virtual reality (VR), to create immersive shopping experiences. Customers can virtually try on clothes, enhancing their shopping experience and reducing return rates. Additionally, 3D models are integral to automated manufacturing technologies like 3D printing, which allows for intricate designs and on-demand production, further contributing to sustainability.

By combining these separate technologies into a single technological solution, resource efficiency is achieved at every stage, as well as complete optimization of production in the enterprise.

Challenges and solutions. Impact on the region and sustainability.

It is a priority for the industry in the region to build a favourable ecosystem of stakeholders from a cross-sector perspective, by fostering a greener, more competitive, smarter and innovative European fashion industry.

Measures will be implemented aimed at supporting enterprises for the introduction of waste-free technologies, reducing the amount of waste generated in the production process, and the development of industrial symbiosis. The implementation of business models that enable interaction between products and services throughout the production and logistics chain, as well as design, reuse and recycling strategies that  ensure longer use of products, will be encouraged. A special focus will be placed on innovations related to the circular economy and support for the development and implementation of green business models.

The main area of impact will be to ensure sustainable models of production and consumption, reducing the material intensity of sewing enterprises and waste prevention. The use of digital technologies to track, control, analyse and optimise supply, production and data collection of product usage will be encouraged. 

As society and industries evolve, design has become an important driver in innovation development, creating a unique competitive advantage.

Best practices related to innovative technologies in garment manufacture

Best practices: Katty Fashion, Pirin-Tex, WRAD, Athens Knit Lab, Algorithmic Couture

Name:	Katty Fashion
Link:	https://katty-fashion.com/
Industry sector:	Innovative technologies in garment manufacture
Location:	Iași, Romania
Description:	Instead of developing patterns and fit using vague body related information, they develop styles by transforming and manipulating features of pre-fitted basic shapes (blocks and templates). This approach allows them to not only be more efficient and waste less in the process but also ensures that garments always fit perfectly in a consistent and reliable manner.In order to implement the protocol, they require the following information:  Body measurements of the representative of your target group.Overall fit intent i.e. how the garment is meant to fit the customer: fitted, looser, etc.. If available, a set of basic shapes (blocks and/or templates). If there are none, they can be developed by their team, according to specific measurements; or use their  standard pre-fitted shapes. Please note that there will be  a surcharge for the use of the in-house standard fit.A sizing table.
Impact in numbers:	On average, 50% less samples. This is not only 50% less time and cost but also 50% less waste – waste that, whenever technologically and logistically possible, they recycle.
Environmental benefits:	A significant reduction in waste and transportation emissions due to reducing the samples created, as well as waste during production, through selecting the most efficient shapes
Social & economic benefits:	The client’s production costs decrease and lead times are decreased
Technological & innovative benefits:	The use of 3D sampling is a highly-innovative cutting-edge technology used lately in the fashion industry

Name:	Pirin-Tex, photovoltaic system
Link:	www.pirintex.com
Industry sector:	Innovative technologies in garment manufacture
Location:	Gotze Delchev, Bulgaria
Description:	The photovoltaic system of Pirin-Tex covers about half of the electricity consumption of the company. The project is part of the long-term investment strategy of the company and the implementation of a policy for greater sustainability on the way to a green economy.The objective of company Pirin-Tex is to continuously develop the production and keep pace with the newest requirements of the international markets, while at the same time reducing the carbon footprint of the activities. Therefore, the company have set ambitious goals that are embedded in the everyday work: – to be garment producer nr.1 in Europe- to be one of the drivers of innovations and technological progress in our sector- to turn Industry 4.0 into reality in our production to provide good labor conditions and long-term perspectives for the young specialists to protect the nature, the employees and clients from any harmful impacts resulting from Pirin-Tex activities
Impact in numbers:	The photovoltaic system saves 1,470 tons of carbon dioxide per year. This corresponds to a number of 37,565 newly planted trees.
Environmental benefits:	The photovoltaic system saves a lot of energy and resources
Technological & innovative benefits:	The photovoltaic technology has been adapted to fit a fashion production company’s needs
Other remarks:	Thanks to the trust, loyalty and cooperation of Pirin-Tex employees, clients and partners, the company manages to continuously enhance the scope of our operations and create products that are competitive in the global market. Therefore, Pirin-tex invests each year in the modernization of the technologies and in the improvement of the work environment.

Name:	WRÅD
Link:	https://www.wradliving.com/https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LzzstyVpMp8
Industry sector:	Sustainable fibers, Sustainable fabrics, Innovations in Garment Manufacture, Circular business models
Location:	Vicenza – Veneto, Italy
Description:	Production of sportswear and other special garments. The garments produced by WRÅD are made with recycled materials in partnership with Veneta Waste. The coloring takes place with a particular technology, gpwdr®, an innovative dyeing technique based on the recycling of enhanced graphite powder, inspired by ancient tradition. GPWDR® technology makes it possible to transform graphite waste into the raw material of an innovative and circular supply chain. The company owns certified dyes, such as Herculaneum Red and Smart Indigo, and doesn’t use any common dying chemicals.
Impact in numbers:	By connecting P.E.A.S. to the t-shirt through a QR code or an NFC tag signals ae transmitted to a mobile phone. The app recognizes how long you have had the garment, if you have already used it and how much you have amortized in terms of water, energy and technology consumption.
Environmental benefits:	The three pillars that guide WRÅD in their choice of materials are: safety, traceability and durability, to which is added the choice of materials reuse, such as recycled wool, polyester and cotton. In addition to production, WRÅD offers educational, design and consultancy services on sustainability practices.
Social & economic benefits:	WRÅD offers educational, design and consultancy services on sustainability practices.
Technological & innovative benefits:	WRÅD garments can be traced through a special system, an intelligent system that integrates social and environmental traceability with gamification. This system makes visible all the information on the origin and impact of clothes, pointing out how much the initial environmental cost of a garment is amortized over time.

Name:	Athens Knit Lab
Link:	https://athensknitlab.com/
Industry sector:	Innovative technologies in garment manufacture
Location:	Greece
Description:	Athens Knit Lab (AKL) is a forward-thinking knit design and development studio founded in 2019 and based in Athens, Greece. Specializing in contemporary knitwear, knitted footwear, accessories, smart textiles, and technical products, AKL seamlessly integrates innovative technologies, creative knit engineering, and sustainable manufacturing practices. They are considered pioneers in 3d knitting in Greece, using STOLL and CMS knitting machines. Design:-           Use of the latest STOLL ADF and CMS knitting machines and STOLL M1+ and CAD/CAM software for 3d knitting to promote zero wasteProduction:-           Produce in small scale upon request and consult with the costumer before proceeding to the development phase
Environmental benefits:	Implementation of fully-fashioning techniques such as 3D knitting and knit-to-shape reduces waste.Commitment to sustainable manufacturing practices, including limited small-scale production.Integration of innovative materials with a focus on sustainability.
Social & economic benefits:	Produce in small scale upon request and consult with the costumer before proceeding to the development phase. Collaboration with a wide network of experienced manufacturers, engineers, and sewing companies supports local and global economic ecosystems.Initiatives like women empowerment and financial household management training courses for female employees of partner factories contribute to social development.In 2022, supported three Brickfield Schools, providing education and health checks for 175 children and their families.
Technological & innovative benefits:	Use of the latest STOLL ADF and CMS knitting machines and STOLL M1+ and CAD/CAM software for 3d knitting to promote zero wasteFocus on fully-fashioning techniques, including 3D knitting and knit-to-shape, demonstrates a dedication to innovation.Technical support and training services offered to enhance knit engineering skills and support new knitting projects.

Name:	Algorithmic Couture
Link:	https://www.dezeen.com/2019/03/27/algorithmic-couture-digital-fashion-customisation/ https://zenbird.media/algorithmic-couture-uses-ai-to-create-zero-waste-fashion/
Industry sector:	Innovative technologies in garment manufacture, AI & Digitalization in fashion production
Location:	Tokyo, Japan
Description:	Algorithmic Couture is an innovative project that merges fashion design with advanced technologies like 3D scanning, machine learning, and computer-aided design (CAD). Its primary aim is to create zero-waste, customized clothing by optimizing garment patterns to each individual’s body shape, thereby reducing fabric waste.
Impact in numbers:	The project significantly reduces fabric waste, which is typically about 15% in conventional fashion production methods, aiming to bring this number down to zero.
Environmental benefits:	The initiative addresses sustainability in fashion by reducing fabric wastage and promoting the creation of garments that are precisely tailored to individual needs, thus contributing to a more sustainable fashion industry.
Social & economic benefits:	Algorithmic Couture democratizes the concept of bespoke fashion, making it more accessible and personalized. It allows consumers to participate in the design process, choosing shapes, fabrics, and colors that reflect their personal style.
Technological & innovative benefits:	Algorithmic Couture introduces a transformative approach to fashion design, combining digitization and AI to create a unique, sustainable, and highly personalized fashion experience. By employing 3D scanning and machine learning, it reimagines the way clothing is designed and produced, emphasizing zero waste and customization. This innovation could lead to a significant shift in the fashion industry, promoting more sustainable practices and personalized fashion.